Wednesday, June 28, 2017

One more sleeve hack...

This time I decided to share the technique before the dress' reveal. Partly because it was a good sewing weekend and I didn't want to stop and take pictures and partly because my photographer wasn't around.

The sleeves are what makes the difference between the last two dresses. The rose and white dress has a split sleeve with a banded tie. How that banded tie is constructed is what's featured in this post.


Honestly, that tie took me three tries to get right and I almost gave up on it! I photographed all the steps so that I would have them memorialized in case I want to do this again...okay, not so sure about that last statement!

Here is how I made the split sleeve with tie ~

The sleeve alterations are the easy part. Take the sleeve and fold it in half, then press it flat:


Lay the pressed sleeve flat and cut the pressed edge leaving a full inch from the sleeve cap:


Serge finish the edge and press back 3/8" just pass the serging:


Stitch all the way around the cut edge:


Put the sleeve aside until it's time to insert it into the garment.

To make the band ~
- I decided that I wanted the band to be 2" wide, so I started with a 3" band. 
- That gave me 1/2" seam allowances. 
- I made a pattern piece for the tie that was 3" wide and 17" long. 
- This is what fit the hemline of the sleeve measured with enough fabric to form a knot with a tie that didn't hang over too far on my arm. 
- I rounded the end of the pattern because I didn't want a square ended tie. 
- Each band consists of two pieces sewn together. 

My finished band/tie was a trial and error situation. I made two attempts before the third one looked the way I wanted it to. I'd also cut my sleeve too long so I had to remove 4" from the hemline of the sleeve.

Attaching the band ~
The rounded ends of the band was clipped and graded before the band was turned and pressed flat.


The two pieces of the bands were sewn together until where it needed to be attached to the sleeve hem.


Then the band was stitched to the sleeve hem. Finally the entire band was topstitched.

Here is what the final sleeve looks like on the dress on Lulu. Yeah, my girl really needs some legs...*sigh*


I posted the construction pics to Instagram last week and promised that there would be words/directions to explain the process here. I hope that these are clear. If not, please feel free to leave a question and I will answer it.

Next up on the blog are the last two Concord Tee dresses. I know that I said I would make five but I got tired of working with the pattern, so I've ended up with four. I think I hacked myself out. LOL! 

Also all the other Concord Tee's will be shown with the bottoms I made or am making to go with them. I have nothing new to say about their construction, so they will make an appearance later. I have worn this pattern out. There are other patterns on my list and/or garments that I want to sew so I'm moving on.

...as always more later!







15 comments:

  1. Thanks for the very clear instructions!!! This is a great sleeve treatment & I can't wait to try it
    Thanks for the inspiration 😍

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  2. Thank you for taking so much time to share the full process. Great way to add another design detail. The step by step is very clear. Can't wait to give it a try!

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  3. Love the sleeve hack and LOVE the fabric.

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  4. yes, thanks for the sleeve instructions as it makes it so clear!

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  5. Thank you!!! I woke up thinking about how I could split the sleeve on a top I just made. I was making my plans to make some samples to try to work out my idea!! This will be a great help on my next version of NL6892.

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  6. That sleeve with that fabric looks so airy and summery! Thanks for the step-by-step instructions.

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  7. Love this hack!!!! The fabric you used is so pretty!

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  8. Thanks for the tutorial. I had this same kind of sleeve idea in mind but my brain was clearly overthinking it with trying to draft a two piece sleeve, add seam allowance and other drama. Slicing right up before you hit the top is a much better idea lol

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  9. Thank you for such clear instructions for this sleeve treatment. As always very inspiring.
    Marie

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  10. I can't wait to see this on you!

    So cute!

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  11. Thank you so much for showing all the photos on IG and now here! LOVE this sleeve!!! :)

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  12. Beautiful! I love this variation - so on trend.

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